Christmas Trip To Amazing Naples

Since holidays are always difficult, especially Christmas, after the death of my son, I chose a pre-get-a-way trip for some distraction, colour, and upbeat energy to soften my grief.      Naples was just what I was looking for!

A big plus was that I left a sub-freezing Paris, down to -5 C.,  covered up to the hilt to wonderfully deplane into the warm and balmy breezes of Naples.  Even after removing my coat and an extra sweater, I felt delightfully warm.

After the Allibus delivered us to the port, it was a short walk to an apartment I had chosen for the view.   Near the Castel Nuovo, it overlooked the sea and port with omnius Vesuvius prominently in the background.

I had spent considerable time, as I always do, choosing a place with a view not too far from restaurants and sights I wanted to visit.  Gastronomy and views of Naples come first!

The sun had just set, so after admiring the view, we set out to buy Prosecco, olives, sausage, and cheese to celebrate our safe arrival.

The fancy Grand Gusto grocery store had a grand display of cheeses and sausages surrounded by stacks of Panetonnes.  Some bright green Sicilian olives, sausage and a “drunken” cheese aged in grape must was all we needed for a proper apero. An inside wine bar chilled our Prosecco before heading back.

The spectacular sights of the bay and port, brightly lit against the dark sky, and shadowed by Vesuvius made for a perfect setting. Slowing sipping the Prosecco while feeling the warm sea breezes, I gave thanks for being here.

Our first night’s restaurant,  Strit Strit was fairly close by.  Specializing in seafood, it fulfilled my desires with a delicious Zuppa di Mare, chock-full of mussels, octopus, cockles, scampi,  langoustines and pasta. Slices of bread that lined the bottom, thoroughly soaked in the delicious sea juices, were a hidden treat that literally melted on my tongue.

Accompanied by a local white wine from Campania, Falanghinia , offering mineral and citrus overtones was a perfect balance with the salinity of our soup.

The next morning, sitting on the balcony again,  I basked in the bright sun sipping my morning coffee and enjoying the Sfogliatella.  It was fun looking at the ferries come and go, most of them Palermo or Genoa-bound.

The frenetic soulful energy of Naples could be found everywhere on the streets, full of noise and people.  I found it to be one of the more if not the most authentic city in Europe.  It seems to have remained, as the French like to say “dans son jus”, or unchanged from yesterday.  A real shame I have not been before!

Naples is a city of sharp contrasts, where stunningly beautiful baroque and Italian renaissance architecture literally coincides with impoverished-looking quartiers dusted here and there with scattered rubbish.

Fabulous mosaics in Galleria were stunning.

Windows framed by wet laundry hung out to dry in the darken narrow alleyways and streets were simply covered up by blue plastic to keep out occasional drizzle and wind-blown rain.

Naples offers scenes of the raw humanness of unadorned people.   Those living in working class neighborhoods are without apologies for who they are.  There, one finds no attempts to hide the blemishes we all have.

This quote found in Herculaneum dismissing the polished looks of vacationing wealthy Romans by Latin poet Marziale still holds true today as more financially endowed northern Italians might see their southern cousins as “less than”.

My amateur photos can’t capture the naked beauty of Naples, nor should they.  Naples is an experience to live and witness firsthand, if only for a few days, not only viewed in photos.

In some ways, it reminded me of New Orleans, the soulful queen city of the south, that one has to visit like Naples to fully capture the beauty.  Besides the open friendliness and easy smiles, I noticed they walk slowly like New Orleanians and certainly less fast than Parisians in general.

I always like slow travel and wasn’t interested in cramming in all the sites of Naples in four days!  I would much rather walk around areas of the city and absorb the energy.

Walk I did indeed, to the tune of 8 to 10 kilometers a day over pocked huge stones and cracked sidewalks with many going uphill.

It was a good thing, all this cardio, since Naples is definitely fried food feasting and pizza dough heaven. My diet suddenly tilted to heavy carbs, something I generally avoid.

A lot of this was finding the best of what Naples offers in traditional foods.  I have never been a pizza person, but it would be culturally negligent to not eat one here.

I wasn’t interested in eating in any chic-starred restaurants.   That is not what Naples is famous for.  The majority of Naples’s traditional treats were derived from humble and inexpensive ingredients that impoverished people could afford to put on their table.

It’s the simple food, some you call street food that people flock to eat here.  Pizza of course is the veritable culinary icon of the city.  There are many variations, but not just any place can call itself a pizzeria.

Places serving true Neapolitan pizza have to adhere to a strict way of preparing and cooking it that is ages old and must be licensed to do so.

A rim of blackened crisp crust with a rather undercooked bottom holds tomato sauce and mozzarella, plus whatever variation was ordered.

Napoli people are very fond of all sorts fried foods: fritto misto of seafood, fried rice balls, arancini, and fried dough, from stuffed fried pizza to puffs of pizza dough.

Il Cuoppa  is one you will see a lot:  stacked and brimming with fried seafood, pizza puffs, and potatoes.  Here is one from the famous Passione di Sofi where there is always a line.

The famed pizza fritta at Pizzeria di Mateo at their original location by the Duomo was pizza dough stuffed with ricotta served piping hot, and wrapped in paper.   There are always lines of folks waiting to be served, assuring your pizza fritta will be just out of the frying vat seen here.

The ongoing year-round Christmas market was just around the corner offering a staggering amount of stalls selling all sorts of Christmas figurines, ornaments, and small wooden miniatures depicting age-old traditions.   Red horns that looked like peppers to me, were omni present and are offered for good luck.

I had chosen the restaurant Locanda di Vecchio Gesu for our second night.  Waiting for it to open we enjoyed a well-made Campari Spritz at Café Vinarrio Mancheo, while entertained by a street performer.

The popular Poppela Pastisseria was across the street making it imperative to get great Sfogliatella for the next day’s breakfast.

Locanda del Vecchio Gesu is a newly acclaimed Michelin bib and quite popular.  I had made sure to reserve in advance.  My stuffed fried pacheri though could have been moister, the pasta more tender and with more sauce.

My daughter had pasta with meat ragu which was well-seasoned and very good. The heady perfumed Piedrosso wine went perfectly with both.  For a sweet ending, Pastiera Napoletana and a Torta de Crema Agrumes were excellent.

Next day’s desire to visit the Pharmacy museum ended up being a rather strenuous goose chase.  Located inside a working hospital on a steep hill, we climbed up many zigzaged narrow streets and pathways.

After about twenty minutes of climbing, we finally found the entrance to be closed!  What a disappointing trek!  It was not mentioned as being closed on their website.

I liked the votive statue of Holy Mary nestled in the rocks surrounded by Christmas-colored foliage that I couldn’t resist plucking some stems for rooting.  I often plant scavenge when I travel as a way to bring home wherever I go.

Tired and exhausted, we sought out a nearby place for lunch.  On the way was another Poppella and Leopold Pasterria vying to return to after lunch.

The Osteria del Caramela turned out to be a real gem and our favorite!   The Rissota al Limone was absolute perfection dressed with small tender bits of fresh tuna.   Fiori de Zucca (zucchini flowers) were stuffed with ricotta and fried to perfection. ! Gastronony Napoletana at its best!

The Archeological Museo was fortunately nearby and definitely worth a visit that lasted past seven.  The exhibits of the history of Naples and artifacts from the excavations of Pompeii and Herculaneum were well represented.

On the way, we stopped at the famous pastry shops of Poppella for their famous Fioco de Neve and Stufoli in a nougatine cup.

By the time we arrived back home, exhaustion and very tired feet overtook us and Aimee wanted to stay put.  I protested at first, of course, not wanting to miss out on a restaurant meal, but she wouldn’t budge.

I eventually gave in to more Prosecco, sausage, olives and cheese bought the other day while contenting myself on the balcony watching boats come and go.  The Stufoli,  a Christmas pastry made of fried honey-coated dough nuggets was a lovely consolation at the end.

Sunday we saved for visiting Herculaneum which I will write about in another post.  I was greeted in the morning to a pack long of motocycles Santas roaring past my balcony below.

The last day in Naples was spent hitting the Pignascas street market in the Spanish Quarters.

Huge oval caciocavallo cheeses hung from ceilings and as well as varieties of smoked sausages.  I would have like to purchase one to take back, but didn’t have enough room in my valise.  

It is the old immigrant neighborhood and holds the very essence of Naples that permeates through the narrow streets.  Flapping bed sheets and underwear hanging from windows fly proudly like flags over rows of small shops and Pizzerias below.

Shouts of vegetable peddlers, singing street performers and multi-animated conversations mingle with motos scooting around barely avoiding pedestrians.

It is full-blast chaos, that tunes up the volume of noisy Naples exploding in front of your ears and eyes.  Almost circus-like, the wild zinging rhythm displays one dashing scenario after another.

I found the blue-lit glass votive house with photos of deceased relatives, in the gaze of saints and the Virgin Holy Mary, a lovely and beautiful way to honour loved ones.  It added a touch of soberness to the otherwise carefree gaiety of the neighborhood.

Leaving Naples without eating a proper pizza seemed like a sin.  A very good anchovies pizza was enjoyed at Trattoria Nennela in the Spanish Quarters.

I opted for the creamy Casio et Pepe pasta , which was well-seasoned and excellent.  Famous also for singing waiters, our lunch was fairly quiet after an accordionist left.

I couldn’t leave without grabbing some cima or broccoli rabe to take home!

It was sunset by the time we boarded the Allibus again to return to the airport for our evening flight back to Paris.  As the plane descended, the golden profile of La Tour Eiffel welcomed us home.

It had “warmed up some” to a chilly 9 degrees C, but no one loves Paris in the winter for the weather, except our Christmas tree waiting to be brought inside for decorating.

Joyeux Noël Season!  May your hearts be filled with the Light and Love of the Christmas season.

P.S.  Our visit to Herculeunium will follow this when I finish writing it!