- Lenôtres Bûchettes
- Sea Urchins and Langoustines
Most Christmases are what we make them, but for myself and others I am sure, there is a cloud of sadness behind the tree and all the trimmings this year. In light of the very recent slaughter of 20 children, it is hard to get pass this and be so very merry.
Perhaps it ripped off a scar in my own psyche, having loss two young cousins during my own childhood. There was also a close childhood friend who lost her second and only remaining child and her sister this year.
Being overly sensitive may be helpful in being a therapist, but in other ways can be difficult when sad events occur around you. Yet it certainly does remind me of how grateful I am in having intact children and grandchildren and all my other blessings!
Despite this underlying mild blueness, I nevertheless strive to find joy in the many blessings around me. Walking to Mass this morning, the sun finally broke out from the dense gray clouds and illuminated a golden glow on the buildings that I pass by everyday.
One of resident beggars of General Leclerc was out as usual and fortunately had some coins in hands to give, wishing he could take a day off from panhandling. Another reminder how fortunate I am that I am not in his shoes.
Most practicing Catholics seem to prefer Midnight Mass here and I do too, but I didn’t make it last night. This morning the city was so quiet in comparison to yesterday’s frenzy, as most of the populace are probably still in bed or hung over.
The French prefer to celebrate their Christmas feast and exchange of presents on Christmas Eve, called le Reveillon. It is a gargantuan multicorse feast of oysters of the half shell, fois gras, lobsters and smoked salmon for the first course, then on to the traditional birds that are much more varied and truly superior in taste to the poultry found in the states.
They all command a hefty price, but are worth every penny for astounding flavor and tenderness. The vast majority adorning their holiday feasts are raised on small farms, and free range.
I could write an entire post on French poultry, which is one on the great glories of French cuisine! Although turkey replaced the popularity of goose about 200 years ago, in part because of America’s wild turkey, the creme de la creme is the specially fattened fowl specifically raised for the holidays.
Most popular is the chapon, or castrated male bird and the female and smaller bird called a poularde, along with a fattened guinea hen. Chestnut and sausage stuffing with truffles if you can afford them abound.
After the main course, comes the traditional cheese tray and yesterday I saw gorgeous arranged platters for those who don’t want to compose their own. With over 240 French cheeses, majority of raw milk thank goodness, everybody has their favorites, especially those from whatever region they came from.
Desert is always the Buche de Noel, in all imaginable flavors with chocolate, praline and or chestnut creams being the most popular. I have made my own Buche de Noel every Christmas since I was 21 years old. For those not satiated enough, there is always fine chocolates and candied chestnuts with Cognac and other liquors.
My own preferred Buche is a rolled genoise cake filled with praline French buttercream made with my own praline, 8 egg yolks and one pound of butter, flavored also with a touch of rum or armagnac.
French praline is not to be confused with the candy that goes by that name in Louisiana. It is simply deeply golden brown carmelised sugar that you add almonds,walnuts and hazelnuts that is poured out to harden. You then grind it into either or course powder fine powder.
I have always adorned mine with meringue mushrooms and my ever-present meringue squirrel that always takes a slightly different shape every year depending on my varied artistic efforts.
I prefer to have my own celebratory feasts, Christmas Eve, then again on the night of Christmas. With so many absolutely stunning delicious foods available here in France, you really needs two feasts back to back.
My Christmas eve is always centered around seafood and generally is smaller and less elaborate. I passed up some Canadian lobsters because I always have to anesthetize them in the freezer and then have a really hard time facing cooking them. In the end in was oysters , then scallops on a bed of avocado cream and beurre blanc that I made with a lovely butter flavored with Yuzu.
Today’s feast is with a poularde. In having to buy it here, totally intact makes me wish I could be a confirmed vegetarian. As an appreciative carnivore, I will say a prayer of thanksgiving for the little bird. Most of the times I would have goose, but seeing so many geese swimming around the lake of Parc Montsouris, on my regular walks quaffed that desire.
I retain my southern roots by always opting to make my stuffing with cornbread and roasted pecans, but it becomes bewitching French by adding one of the best sausages in the world, called Montbelliard from the Jura region near Switzerland, along with some chestnuts.
I am saving my foie gras for New Years, and instead will have the smoked salmon sprinkled with dill, red onions and my best olive oil. I could have bought smoked salmon from either Ireland,Scotland or Norway, but decidedly chose wild salmon from Alaska as an American offering to grace my table.
My Champagne is from an adorable family I discovered at my favorite wine salon and a beautiful red Cotes de Beaune from Burgundy bought likewise there that has been aging in my little cave that stays perfectly cool and dark year round.
As I am finishing this post, the clouds over the rooftops are taking on a pinkish glow and night is drawing near. I feel called to take one last walk in the park before getting back into the kitchen, where I will be in my own glory spit roasting the bird and putting the final touches on the Bûche de Noel.
I have no control over the events in this world, but I do in my own kitchen. Therefore let there be joy in at least preparing and enjoying my Christmas feast!
To my fellow Americans and French friends I wish you as merry of a feast as you can make it! Like those clouds that took on a pink hue, I will do the same, preferring to illuminate with the last rays of sunshine before the shadows of night draw near.
Joyeux Noel!
That horrible mass murder put a cloud over my Christmas too. Your mouth watering descriptions of your holiday feast helped lift it.
Thank you! I too was able to enjoy my feast, however much work it was to get it all on the table! Saving you some Bûche, which was really delicious!
YUM ,YUM, and more YUM !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Carol!
Bonjour Cherry– Your description of the Christmas feast–really makes me smile greatly– as I remember — so many of these during past Christmas days in my beautiful, wonderful Montreal– where I would always fly into on DELTA from Monroe–Of your descriptions of food–I am again amazed at the similarities of France and Quebec–The smoked salmon is EXACTLY as prepared for me in Le Montrealais/Bistrot at Le Reine Elizabeth Hotel–I asked about their source– and it is flown in daily from Newfoundland — and I just have to eat some freshly baked french bread with it!
Les Québécois carried a lot of their food customs with them when they left France for North America. I bet the salmon from Newfoundland is wonderful! They also are blessed to have all those maple trees giving off their treasured maple syrup, which I adore. My grandmother, who lived in upstate New York, near Vermont would always send a gallon of maple syrup at Christmas time, but it was from Vermont of course!
I remember your Grandmother very well as we sat and talked stocks in the den of your home on Hilton when she visited–can still “see” her just like it was yesterday—