One of my very favorite streets in Paris is Rue Saint Denis that becomes Faubourg Saint Denis as it crosses into the 10 th arrondissement. It is definitely one of the seediest, oldest, grimiest, quirkiest, slightly dilapidated streets in old Paris. A colorful melange of neoned prostitutes, sex shops, garment trade boutiques and ethnic markets. All the makings of a very colorful neighborhood, that I just adore!
The street dates back to the first century of Roman occupation of Lutece. The Porte Saint Denis was one of the ancient entries, where you paid to have the privilege to enter into the city. Outwardly it led to the Abbey of Saint Denis where the French royals were buried, then on to Rouen in Normandy.
It was one of the major streets that cut through the ancient food halls of Paris, Les Halles known as the “belly of Paris”. What a crime that this beautiful wrought iron masterpiece was torn down in 1971, in the name of progress to build a lack luster shopping mall.
The major consensus now that it was a total mistake to not have preserved the blue steel arches of Les Halles. The food market was moved to Rungis where it today, a huge conglomerate of cavernous warehouses hat supplies basically all the food needs of the entire city of Paris.
Part of the soul of old Les Halles though, is still alive on Rue Saint Denis! The ghosts of Irma La Douce, must keep it going I guess. Street walkers, known as “poules” were as much a part of Les Halles, and just as colorful as the baskets of vegetables, poultry, cheeses and all sort of foods on display.
I walked up there yesterday, on a nice sunny autumn day. A block or two before I reached Porte Saint Denis the street workers were out in force with their stilettos and platform heels, bodies sqeezed in tight mini skirts. Prominently exposed silicone breasts protruding, most looked like their better years were long past. A few had to be older than myself, Mon Dieu!
As usual, there were no gendarmes in sight. Their presence is tolerated as much as is was in the past. Most were standing solitude and a few huddled together in quiet conversation, while waiting for their johns. I would have loved to have taken a photo of them, but dared not to be so brazenly brave.
North of Porte Saint Denis, it looks even seedier, but is all hustle and bustle with Turkish, and Kurdish butchers, bakers and groceries stores. A great green grocer is there, which always entices me with their impeccably fresh produce. Across the street is another Turkish grocery that I buy real Greek yogurt and feta .
Off the side is a darken alley arcade, called Passage Brady which is lined with Pakistani and Indian restaurants permeating the smell of curries. There is an Indian grocery called Velan, that I like too, reeking with spices and incense.
Another alley way, Passage d’Industrie is dotted with professional hair care products and as you turn onto Blvd Strasbourg, there is a multitude of African wig stores. Close to Gare de L’Est is where I like to buy raw Alsatian choucroute (sauerkraut) that had just arrived at Schmitt’s Alsatian Charcutrier.
Gare de L’Est is the train station where trains from Alsace-Lorraine, Germany, Austria, and at one time the old Orient Express pulled in from Istanbul. There still is a very chic Simplon Venise Orient Express that leaves here with skyscraper tariffs, as well as the Moscow Express.
Turkish immigrants who arrived apparently did not go far, as the Turks seem to proliferate the quarter. Ivory coast Africans and immigrants from Mauritius, also make up a large part too. All in all it makes for a colorful and interesting multinational neighborhood.
When I was a student here many years ago, this area was mostly French with the exception of a lot of Eastern Europeans who flooded in during the war, establishing the garment trade, which still flourishes today. Though I really lament the loss of Les Halles, at least I can still get a taste and feel of it strolling on the old cobblestones on Rue Saint Denis.
Love the story about Rue St Denis in Paris and when I saw the picture of the food stalls at Les Halles–I am pretty sure I have been there one time long ago; Also–oddly enough–Rue St Denis in Montreal is also one of my very favorites places in beautiful Monteal–
Thank you Herbie! My photos do not capture what I wanted to portray, but it is the best that I can do given my very limited talents as a photographer. Food stalls are everywhere in Paris, as each arrondissement has several, some permanent and some on scheduled days of the week. For foodies like me, just that alone makes for many journeys all around the city, which I am prone to do anyway.
Next time steal a picture of the streetwalkers, Cherry!! It’ll make for a most interesting picture!!
Pam, I really wanted to, but I was fearful about possible repercussions, especially from their “requins” or pimps! Maybe in the future if I can have a more discreet camera. I go there on a fairly regular basis to get my food articles.